Testimonials & BLOG

TESTIMONIALS & BLOG

Testimonials

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Rein with Paula and Lew H.

Adam Miller is an exceptional person and behavioral trainer. Adam has the unique ability to work not only with your pet, but the whole family dynamic including all the members that are a part of it - both human and animal. He is very good at "reading" the situation between all family and pack members as well as their multifaceted interactions between each other on every level.

Because Adam is genuine in his care, steady in his training and recognizes the weakness and strengths of the whole he is able to gain trust from both the people and animals, separately and together, to produce phenomenal results. His knack of combining humor at the appropriate times helps everyone to maintain a relaxed demeanor and encourages everyone's participation as he teaches you to handle your special situation(s). Adam is very honest and open about your expected participation and helps everyone to get on board for the good of the whole to achieve their goals. His people skills, charisma and K9 behavioral expertise are the perfect package for a successful outcome. Adam is always very personable and professional and has each person's and pet's best interest at heart at all times.

Adam has made a tremendous impact in our lives, a life that suddenly became an ominous situation when we rescued a dog not knowing that he had no social skills and was 175 lbs of very high energy and added him in with our 4 other large dogs. As time progressed the situation worsened and one of the original 4 was later diagnosed with brain cancer as he became uncontrollable and aggressive which naturally made a bad situation escalate and become even worse. With Adam's help we have gone from a barely "functional or manageable" group to once again, a loving, trusting, integrated family with all of our pets. We are no longer overwhelmed with the fear of dominance or fighting, or having to keep dogs completely separated and overseen 24/7 - which was all very real, not to mention physically challenging and mentally exhausting. All of us, human and animal, consider Adam a part of our family. I am certain that we could have never accomplished what we have without his talent, inspiration, leadership, determination and patience.

Adam Miller's job is to make your pack complete, complete with your leadership. The results are that Adam leads the way while empowering you with the skills to become the leader of your pack. Whether your dog simply won't sit when told or is violently aggressive to others he has the expertise to bring you all together as one by training everyone to be competent and confident in their roles.

If you have one dog or many - Adam can help you solve your problems. He certainly made a difference in our lives and I am certain that he can make a difference in your life too.

Paula and Lew H.
Rocky Mount, VA

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"Jackson"

Hi Adam,

Thanks so much for your help with Jackson. He is walking on the lease like a pro...no longer dragging me around! We had another successful walk this morning and as you can tell from the attached picture he is completely worn out!

Thanks again,
Beth
Salem, VA

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"Annabelle"

Hi Adam!

I just wanted to thank you for coming out and volunteering your time at the adoption center on Wednesday. Your advice was timely and much needed, and we greatly appreciate your time. We posted some pics and your contact info on our Facebook page.

Thank you again.

Inglath C.
Franklin County Humane Society

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"Leah and Zephyr"

Dear Adam,

Glad we met you to show Leah how to socialize for the first time ever. We were just as happy as Leah was that day!

Frank & Gloria
Salem, VA

"Socializing walk with the whole pack"

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We met Adam while walking our 8 pound, thinks he's a pit-bull, fluffy pup, Bailey. Rather he was walking us, and being aggressive with any other dog he came in contact with...like Adam's huge black lab.

Adam approached us and asked if he could help. Within minutes Bailey was sitting quietly, then walking calmly on a loose leash. We decided to have Adam work on some other behaviors at our home.

With two lessons Bailey stopped running out the door every time it opened, and lost his fear of walking near the sewer openings. He also came when called.

Thanks Adam,

June & Ron
South Carolina

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Sadie and Bella

Adam:
Thanks so much for helping us with Sadie and Bella. Sadie is walking much better on the leash and Bella is doing better with her anxiety issues with strangers and other dogs. You certainly trained us well and it shows with our dogs. Now we can actually enjoy taking them for walks and even taking them to the dog park. We now feel confident that we can handle situations when they rise.
Thanks again. You are awesome and have made such a positive difference in our lives.

Gigi and Ted B.
Lynchburg, VA

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Lola Belle

Hi Adam,

Thanks again for coming over yesterday and teaching me so many valuable lessons. I actually sat at the coffee table and ate dinner with both dogs laying on the living room floor. Uninterrupted dinner was a first. :)

They (Toby and Lola Belle) are being really great. Thanks again.

Lorraine N.
Roanoke, VA

Toby

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Bentley

Adam is the best trainer ever! He has really been instrumental in getting me started to having a better experience with my Golden - Bentley. Bentley loves him too.

Gerald B.
Roanoke, VA

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Roscoe

Adam,
Thanks again for all your help and showing us that we COULD make it through his difficult behaviors. Roscoe has turned into a great dog for us. Glad we didn't give up on him!

P.S. Our neighbor even commented that the obedience training really made a difference!

Thanks,
Tami
Roanoke, VA

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Adam has done a great job with our two "kids" Lexie and Lucy. They both seemed to like him as well as respect him. He was patient with them (and us!) as they/we started to "unlearn" some of our old habits with them that did not work. Adam's very down-to-earth, and has a good sense of humor to boot. My wife and I both highly recommend him (as well as Lexie and Lucy!) in helping you to train your dog(s).

Thanks,
Jeffrey
Roanoke, VA

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Not only does Adam train dogs, he trains owners too! After saving a kennel stressed Rhodesian Ridgeback from the Euth list, we found ourselves in quite a predicament. Our Ember is as sweet as she can be to people but doesn't have the same affinity for other dogs. Adam has made a huge difference in our approach. Instead of freaking out when Ember freaks out and causing more of a production, we are able to stay calm, confident, consistent, and firmly communicate commands. It turns out she actually likes being told what to do. We still have a ways to go but with Adams help, we are able to see some light in the distance of the tunnel (and go for a loose(ish) leash walk down our street) Highly recommend!

Thanks,
Stephanie R.
Roanoke, VA

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So Adam came in and helped my wife and I with our two dogs. They were not by any means misbehaved dogs but lacked many obedience and leash walking skills. In six sessions Adam was able to give us all the tools we needed to have well behaved and obedient dogs. They listen when we tell them to do stuff and are awesome on the leash. I would strongly recommend Adam and his training for any type of dog you have!

Thanks,
Jonathan W.
Roanoke, VA

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Kali

I rescued Kali when she was five months old, and she is the first dog that I have raised on my own. As she grew older and more accustomed to me, she began to test my limits and try to become the alpha of the household. One of my colleagues recommended Adam, so I contacted him and explained the situation. As soon as Adam arrived at my house, I noticed an immediate change in Kali's behavior. His demeanor was dominate yet gentle, and I was in awe of how well Kali listened to him. Also, he was incredibly kind and respectful to my roommate and me and made notes for me as he spoke. In our short time together, he gave me a ton of valuable information and advice on how to treat every situation Kali throws at me. I continue to stay in touch with Adam, and he is always encouraging and willing to give pointers with any new problems that arise. It means the world to me when people tell me how well-behaved Kali is, and I highly recommend Adam to anyone who has a stubborn pup like mine.

Amy P.
Roanoke, Va

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Bailey

I highly recommend Adam for any issues you may have with your dogs' behavior. My son adopted Bailey when he was a puppy. We had taken him to puppy obedience class where we learned a few commands like sit, take it, drop it ( with a bribe). We never mastered loose leash walking. Walking Bailey was extremely frustrating. Bailey insisted that our walks should include chasing cars, cats, barking at strangers, and greeting smaller dogs that wanted nothing to do with him. Thanks to Adam, Bailey and I now can both enjoy our walks. Most of the time it feels like I am walking with a leash in my hand and I often glance down to make sure Bailey is on the other end. Bailey has always been friendly with women but it takes him quite a while to warm up to men. By our second training session Bailey was already warming up to Adam and by the third Bailey was very excited to see Adam. Adam's training techniques are easy to grasp and he always provides you with notes of things you have covered in your sessions to refer back to. Adam is very patient, encouraging and easy to work with.

Keila D.
Roanoke, VA

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Copper

I can’t say enough about how much Adam helped us! My dog, Copper was having some trouble obeying me and did not respect me at all. Although he could be cute and cuddly when he wanted to be, he also had a defiant side to him that would seem to show up at its worst when I would have guests over to my home. Any time someone would ring my doorbell, Copper would throw such a fit that I couldn’t get control of him for at least 10 more minutes. We were also having a lot of trouble with him pulling on his leash on walks, so our walks became an activity that was stressful instead of enjoyable for both of us.

Adam was more than willing to come to my home to help me learn how to correctly train Copper. Copper instantly loved Adam and was extremely receptive to his style of training. More importantly than teaching Copper, Adam was able to teach ME how to interact with Copper in a way he understood. His training style is great and worked very well for us.

Within a couple of sessions, Copper was obeying me so much better, he calmed down within a few seconds of hearing the doorbell ring, and he was walking on a leash with no pulling at all. Not only does my dog now respect me so much more, but we also now have more fun, relaxing interactions instead of ones that are filled with tension.

We are so so thankful for the time Adam spent helping us out. Aside from the fact that he is incredibly knowledgeable about dog training, he is so passionate about what he does and that shines through in his sessions. I would highly recommend him to anyone!

Lauren R.
Salem, VA

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Riley

What I enjoyed most about Adam's classes was that while he certainly prepared my dog, Riley, for the Canine Good Citizen test, he better prepared me as a handler. Riley has always been a very smart and eager learner, but Adam still found ways to better modify my training techniques to make her even more responsive. Now Riley can walk by another dog without freaking out and wanting to play with him/her. Most importantly, I feel like my bond with Riley is closer than ever. Adam is very personable and is truly passionate about the work he does. I definitely recommend him! 5 stars!

Amy W.
Blacksburg, VA

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Gage

Adam was wonderful to work with and we saw results.We have an English Mastiff who needed reassurance and confidence building.Adam not only gave us the tools to help Gage but he was kind,patient and willing to tackle whatever needed to be worked on.We highly recommend Adam and are so thankful for him.Our dog is now comfortable and confidant!

Erin K.
Roanoke, VA

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"Waylen"

We are so lucky to have had Adam recommended to us! Even after the first session we noticed a HUGE and POSITIVE difference in our pup’s behavior. Adam has a wealth of knowledge and experience and does an incredible job of training us as dog owners to continue the training he offers our pup long after our sessions. Personable, patient and honest are all qualities we felt in just our first interaction. His training helped our pup walk on the leash like a pro at just 5 months and command training that has been a game changer for our crazy and what seemed like untrainable dog. We look forward to working with him in the future and cannot emphasize enough how much we recommend his services for your pup!

ToniRose & Pat
Roanoke, VA

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BLOG: DOG TRAINING

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VISITING THE DOG PARK

As the weather warms up and dog owners are looking for things to do outdoors with their furry family members, visiting a local dog park is a popular activity. To make sure your experience at the dog park is a positive one, there are some basic guidelines and rules that all dog owners should adhere to when visiting any dog park.

Make sure that you do not allow your dog to pull you all the way up to the entrance to the dog park. Not only is this rude and disrespectful to the owner, but this shows the other dogs in the park that you are not in control of your dog and this may cause the other dogs to get excited, nervous or dominant. I frequently observe owners actually rewarding this behavior by letting the dog into the park after being pulled to the entrance gate…from the dog’s perspective, they just got rewarded for all the pulling and will most likely pull harder next time. I suggest that you insist that your dog walks politely with you up to the entrance and then sits and waits to be invited inside. If you cannot get your dog under control while approaching the dog park, simply return back to your car with your dog, wait until they calm down and then try again. Repeat this procedure until the dog figures out that pulling will not get them into the park…dog’s are pretty smart and usually figure this out after a few attempts.

Use the double-gated entrance area correctly. This area is where you want to leash and unleash your dog when entering and leaving the park. Once you have unleashed your dog in this area, remain there for a few minutes to see how your dog and the other dogs react to each other. I recommend not entering the park until the initial excitement of a new member coming in has worn off. I frequently see owners enter the park with their dog still on leash while there is a large group of excited dogs at the fence. This is a disaster waiting to happen. The dog that is entering on a leash may become nervous or reactive, since it will probably feel trapped or cornered, given that it is on a leash and the other dogs are off leash. Staying in this area will give you a chance to correct any unwanted behavior from your dog and will give you the opportunity to observe the other dogs in the park. Make sure to pay attention to any dogs that appear dominant or over-excited…hard eye contact and stiff upright tails are good indicators. You should match your dog’s energy and play style with that of other dogs already inside the dog park. Once the energy level at the entrance has calmed down, open the gate and enter the dog park.

Be a diligent and active owner while at the dog park…don’t just sit there and watch your dog cause trouble or harass other dogs. As the pack leader of your dog, it is your job to set the rules, boundaries and limits of play with other dogs…any behavior that you do not correct will be considered acceptable by your dog. When to get involved is very important. I recommend getting involved whenever you see a dog becoming scared, nervous or reactive to another dog and the other dog, in the dominant position, is not backing off or calming down. If you do not intervene, there is a good chance that the submissive dog will tire of the harassment and react by barking, lunging or biting the other dog. The goal is to set the limits and rules of play by correcting the level of or type of play before it gets to the point where one of the dogs feels that it has to take control of the situation. If you need to intervene, instead of pulling the other dog away, I recommend that you get between the dogs (this is referred to as “splitting”), face the disruptive dog and herd it away from your dog…pulling on a dog may just cause more excitement. Once the dogs are separated and have calmed down, let them continue to play as long as the energy level is acceptable. If the dogs start to get worked up again, just repeat the procedure…pretty soon the dogs will understand what level of play is accepted.

Finally, if you are not comfortable with the owners or dogs in the park during your visit, or if things seem to be getting out of control, just leave and come back another time. Trust your instincts…if you feel uncomfortable then your dog probably feels the same way. As with any situation, you get what you give when interacting with a dog so be sure to remain calm and confident while at the dog park…this will help your dog remain relaxed because your dog will know that you have everything under control and will take care of any situations that may arise. April 17, 2015

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USING YOUR DOG’S NAME AND CORRECTION MARKS

A common mistake I come across is the improper use of a dog’s name. Many dog owners have the bad habit of using their dog’s name when correcting unwanted behavior. If you use your dog’s name to correct inappropriate actions, it is common for the dog to associate its name with being bad and this is something that all dog owners want to avoid.

It is confusing to the dog because owners tend to use their dog’s name when they are being good or bad. I frequently hear the misuse of a dog’s name when I am visiting the Salem Dog Park, Highland Dog Park or a client’s home – Fifi stop, Fifi quit, Fifi no, FIFI!!!!! If your dog has associated its name with being bad, the response to hearing their name may be to cower or shy away for you and this is not a good thing. No wonder your dog does not listen to you or come when called. You always want your dog to have a cheerful response to hearing its name – to perk up and look at you.

If you have been making this common mistake, do not worry because it is a pretty easy fix. Stop using your dog’s name when correcting unwanted behavior. Start using your dog’s name generously when working on obedience commands or while doing fun and exciting activities. You want your dog to associate pleasurable and rewarding feelings with the use of its name.

If you should not use your dogs name then what should you use? The words and sounds that you use when correcting unwanted behavior are referred to as “correction marks”. Your dog probably already knows the words and sounds you use when you are pleased with their behavior, such as “good boy” or “super dog”, but it is just as important that your dog understands the words and sounds you use when you do not like your dog’s actions. All good training is based upon clear communication between dog and owner.

Instead of using your dog’s name, I frequently recommend to my clients that they use the same sounds or words that their mother used on them as a child. For example, you could use “uh-uh”, “tsst” or “hey”. But, whatever phrase or sound is used, it must be direct and authoritative and you must back it up with assertive body language. I would rather do one proper correction then ten bad corrections. You want to use a sound that gets your dogs attention and snaps them out of what they are doing… experiment with different sounds until you find your own.

By consistently using certain “correction marks”, your dog will soon learn that these words or sounds mean that you are unhappy with their behavior and that your dog needs to stop and pay attention to you. May 13, 2015

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The Dog Owner’s Role

You are the most important tool when training your dog. Your energy and attitude when interacting with your dog will have a dramatic effect on how quickly your dog learns and how much both of you enjoy training.

You get what you give when working with a dog…if you are irritated or anxious then your dog will exhibit irritated or anxious behavior. If you approach a situation with an angry or frustrated attitude then you are part of the problem and not part of the solution. Have patience when training your dog and realize that mistakes will happen and that mistakes are a normal part of the learning process.

Dogs are pack oriented and social animals that need a competent leader. In order to be seen as a capable leader in your dog’s eyes, I recommend that you adhere to the “The Four C’s of Leadership” – always be calm, consistent, and confident when communicating with your dog. These characteristics are found in all leaders and are a large part of the reason why certain people are trusted with a leadership role.

Calm behavior will build trust and respect between you and your dog. There is a big difference between being “mean” and “meaning it”. Remaining calm also helps you from getting too upset and doing or saying something that you might regret later.

Consistency is vital because dogs do not understand maybe or sometimes…it is a yes-or-no world for a dog. Consistency in training will increase the speed with which your dog learns since reward and praise will be closely associated with specific behaviors. Dogs love routines and it is important that your dog clearly comprehends what is expected of it and what behaviors are allowed and which are not.

Confidence shows your dog that you are self-assured and that you can manage any situation that arises. Dogs are more calm and relaxed when they feel safe and protected. Belief in your self and your dog’s abilities will have wonderful results in your training and your relationship with your dog.

Communication is a key factor in successful training and relationship building. It is your job, as the pack leader, to set the rules, boundaries and limits and to clearly teach your dog what is expected of it.

Be the owner your dog needs…someone who your dog can trust and depend on. Mistakes will happen, but if you keep these guidelines in mind and you acknowledge your faults, there is nothing that you cannot accomplish. Your dog will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of its heart. You owe it to your dog to be worthy of such devotion.
June 10, 2015

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Communicating with Your Dog

Consistent and correct communication is the key to training and relationship building with your dog. It is important to learn different ways to communicate with your dog so you can properly inform your dog whether you agree with or disagree with a behavior. The different techniques for communicating will allow you to convey your message to your dog in a way that it will better understand and comprehend. The easiest way to remember all the different communication methods is to look at your dog’s head – the different options are your dog’s nose, eyes, ears or mouth.

The NOSE represents scent or smell. Scent is a very powerful communicator…the way to a dog’s brain is through the nose. Scent is usually used for training purposes, for getting your dog’s attention or for redirecting your dog’s focus. Next time you lose your dog’s attention during training, just wave a tasty treat under your dog’s nose and you will see an immediate change of focus back onto you. Smell or scent can also be used to help calm your dog…the smell of lavender oil has a calming effect on animals (as well as humans) and can be placed on a bandana around your dog’s neck or underneath your dog’s bed.

The EYES represent communicating with your body language when interacting with your dog. A relaxed and erect posture communicates confidence and assertion. Your facial expressions can also be used to convey your feelings or intentions…pleasant facial expressions represent acceptance or approval and stern facial expressions represent dislike or disapproval. You can have a whole conversation with your dog by just using different facial expression. “Spatial pressure” is another technique that is used to get your point across to your dog. Spatial pressure is simply the act of moving in towards your dog or away from your dog. Moving in will back up a dog and is an assertive movement while moving away from your dog will invite the dog in and is an engaging movement. The next time your dog refuses to follow a command, instead of repeating it over and over, try taking a calm but assertive step in towards your dog.

The EARS represent tone and sound. The tone in your voice when you interact with your dog is an easy way of conveying your feelings and thoughts. High pitch tones represent agreement or approval and low pitch tones represent disapproval and disappointment. Dogs naturally use tone when communicating with each other and it is a concept you can use which your dog will clearly understand. When a dog is happy, the pitch of their barking is higher and when they are upset, the pitch in their voice is lower. As for sound, it is also important that your dog learns the specific marks (or words) that you use when communicating with your dog. While your dog cannot understand much language, they can remember specific word sounds. There are two basics training marks that your dog needs to understand…your “praise” marks and your “correction” marks. Praise marks are the sounds that you use when you like or agree with a behavior…such as “yes” or “good”. Correction marks are the sounds that you make when you dislike or disagree with a behavior…such as “eh-eh” or “no”. Being consistent with your tones and sounds will greatly increase the speed in which your dog understands and learns.

The MOUTH represents touch. This is because dogs use their mouth to communicate by means of nips, muzzle-bumps or licks. Touch is a powerful communication tool and will override all other techniques…you will always get a response from your dog when you utilize touch. There are two types of touch – pleasant and unpleasant. Petting, messaging and scratching are examples of pleasant touch and leash corrections, bumps and pokes are examples of unpleasant touch. Dogs naturally touch each other in order to communicate so this is nothing new to them. The idea of the unpleasant touch is to simulate nipping your dog in order to let them know that you disagree with a behavior. The purpose of touch is to snap your dog out of its current state of mind and to get its attention back onto you.

Make sure to use all forms of communication – combine, alternate and balance the use of these tools to maintain motivation and focus. If you are not able to get your dog’s attention after a few attempts with one of the communication methods, then move on to another method. I compare being stuck in one type of communication tool with the definition of insanity…“doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result”. Never rely on just one communication technique since it will desensitize your dog to that specific method. July 20, 2015

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The Concept of Follow Through

Follow through is an extremely important concept whenever you want to correct your dog’s bad behavior. The technical definition of follow through is that you must continue with a correction until you get a change in a dog’s state of mind. It shows your dog that you mean it and will persist with the correction until a behavior stops. Follow through does not mean that you escalate with your correction but that you continue until your dog understands that you disagree with a behavior, stops the behavior and looks to you for guidance.

The first time that you follow through with a correction is always the hardest and longest. This is because the dog will initially fight the change and continue with the unwanted behavior because it either enjoys the activity or the owner has accidentally reinforced the behavior. Your dog is testing you to see if you really mean what you are saying. The initial follow through of a correction is imperative. If you do not stick with a correction until your dog gets the point, or if you give in and let your dog continue a bad behavior, it will learn that you do not really mean it and that it does not need to listen to you.

The good news is that it gets easier to stop bad behavior each time you properly follow through with your corrections. Once your dog understands that you do mean what you say, and you are willing to continue until they snap out of a behavior, it will become quicker and easier to change your dog’s state of mind. A perfect example is when your father yells, “don’t make me come up there” because you are acting up at bedtime and not going to sleep. The first few times that he does this, he will most likely have to go upstairs, come into you room, put you back into bed and turn the lights off. But, after he has followed through with the correction a couple of times, all he will have to do is give a warning from downstairs that he wants you to calm down and go to bed. This only works because he has followed it through each time and you have learned that you might as well go to sleep now or he will come upstairs and make you. The same concept applies to your dog.

Have patience and persistence when correcting your dog’s bad behaviors. Make sure not to get angrier at your dog but to just continue until your dog stops the behavior. Always remain calm but assertive with your tone and body language…there is a big difference between meaning it and being mean. If you adhere to the concept of proper follow through, your dog will trust and respect you as a leader and will be more likely to listen to you the first time that you correct any unwanted behaviors. August 17, 2015

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HOUSEBREAKINGYOUR DOG

Dog owners need to understand that housebreaking can take longer with some dogs, especially smaller breeds since they have smaller bladders and need to relieve themselves more frequently. Most dogs actually have little or no control over their bladders until at least four months of age and it is not unheard of to have a dog that can take up to a year to completely housebreak. Certain breeds are also known for being tough to housebreak.

Housebreaking is established through patience, diligence, and perseverance. Always remember that mistakes will happen and each dog will learn at their own pace - some just take longer than others. Stay positive, stick to your routine and have confidence that all your hard work will pay off.

If you catch your dog making a mistake in the house, do not rub your dog’s face in it and scold them. Instead, let them know that you disagree with the behavior and immediately take them outside. Praise them if they finish any of their business after you have taken them out of the house. Under no circumstance should your reprimand or punish your dog if you do not catch them in the act. If you discipline your dog “after the fact”, your dog will not understand why they are being corrected and it will confuse your dog.

Tips of Housebreaking –

1) Be consistent. Dogs really like routines and are happier when they know what to expect.

2) Set up a solid routine with your dog as soon as possible. On average, a dog can hold their bladder for 1 hour per month of age.

3) Learn to read your dog’s body language in order to pick up the “cues” your dog uses when he/she has to go to the bathroom.

4) Be proactive. Make sure to take your dog out after every meal, upon waking, after playtime or after training sessions.

5) Go to the same spot for bathroom breaks and praise them for doing their business. Do not start praising, walks or playtime until after they have finished going to the bathroom.

6) Start marking the bathroom breaks with a phrase or word like “do your business” or “go potty”. This way you can ask your dog if they need to go to the bathroom and you can also encourage the behavior once outside.

7) Make a schedule for feeding and watering and stick to it. Remove you dog’s water at nighttime so they don’t fill up with water right before going to bed.

8) Keep your dog near you and under your supervision at all times during housebreaking training. You can either tether them near you or use a playpen.

9) Crate train your puppy. Crate training is a great way to control a young dogs bathroom habits.

10) Thoroughly clean up all bathroom mishaps a few times with an enzyme based product. I like to use Nature’s Miracle, which can be found at most pet supply stores.

Keep at it and it will pay off. There is no magical cure for housebreaking. It just takes consistent and persistent work. A few months of patience, understanding and consistency for a lifetime of enjoyment is a small price to pay. Sept 15. 2015

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Giving Affection to Your Dog

All dog’s need affection in order to enjoy a balanced life but it is essential that dog owners understand when it is appropriate to give affection to their furry family members. People have a bad habit of using human psychology when dealing with their dog’s behaviors…they tend to coddle, sweet talk or console their dog as they would a child. Unfortunately, this does not work with dogs. Dogs only understand your energy when you interact with them…as I have always said, “it is not what you say to a dog but how you say it.”

Never give affection to a dog that is in a bad state of mind…especially when your dog is exhibiting nervous, scared or aggressive behavior. This common mistake is actually reinforcing and nurturing the dog’s conduct. A good example to illustrate this concept is what I call the “Spoiled Little Dog Syndrome”. I frequently see owners make this mistake when dealing with a small dog that is reacting to a situation with fear or reactivity. The owners have a habit of picking up the small dog, hugging and petting it and sweet-talking the dog. The owners are actually rewarding and encouraging the behavior. Look at it from the dog’s perspective…every time they react this way, their owner picks them up, coddles them, talks sweet to them and pets them. Since the owner is unwittingly highly rewarding the behavior, the dog will assume that the behavior is proper and the unwanted behavior will persist.

Instead of rewarding your dog’s troublesome behaviors, it is the owner’s job to help their dog get through the situation and realize that there is no need to respond in a bad way. If an owner feels bad or sorry for their dog, they cannot help their dog…the owner actually becomes part of the problem and not part of the solution. Getting worried or stressed will only give your dog more reason to react with bad behavior.

The proper response, to any situation that normally elicits an unwanted reaction from your dog, is to ignore, re-direct or address the behavior. By ignoring the dog’s behavior, you are not empowering the problem and you will show your dog that the situation is no big deal and that there is nothing to worry about. If ignoring your dog does not work, you can try re-directing your dog’s attention so you can get the dog’s focus off of the stressor. Thankfully, dogs can only do one thing at a time. The trick is to get your dog’s focus back onto you so that the dog is less likely to react in a negative manner. Finally, if ignoring or re-directing do not work, then it is necessary to address the behavior. The goal of correcting your dog, whether it is a verbal, spatial or physical, is to follow through until your dog changes its state of mind and you can get the dog’s attention back onto you.

Remember, no matter which technique is used, it is important that you always remain calm and assertive when communicating with your dog. If you get anxious, worried or fearful about an issue, you are giving your dog cause to act in an inappropriate manner and your dog will never learn how to correctly respond to a given situation…if the pack leader is worried than everyone is worried. Always give your dog lots of love and affection but be sure that you are doing it at the right times and that you are not accidentally nurturing the exact behavior which you are trying to prevent. October 19, 2015

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Dealing with Your Dog’s Behaviors

Dog owners have four options to choose from when dealing with any behavior demonstrated by their furry family members – they can reward, ignore, re-direct or address the dog’s behavior. Which option you choose to use will depend on what the specific behavior is and the intensity level of the dog. Still, no matter which technique is chosen, you must always have a calm and confident manner when dealing with your dog.

REWARD – Good behavior should always be rewarded. By giving affection, attention, treats or praise to your dog, you will be positively reinforcing whatever behavior your dog is displaying. Your dog will repeat behaviors that have a positive consequence. Learn to praise your dog more than you correct them.

IGNORE – Ignoring your dog is a strong communication technique. It is a simple way of telling your dog that you do not agree with and you will not get involved with their current behavior. Though it seems simple, to be affective, you must truly ignore your dog…turn away or walk away from your dog while holding a determined energy.

RE-DIRECTING – Re-directing can work wonders. Thankfully, dog’s can only do one thing at a time so, if you can get your dog’s focus onto something else, you can get your dog to forget about the original behavior you wanted to stop. If you can get your dog to chew on a rope instead of your hands, you now have an opportunity to reward and reinforce a wanted behavior. This technique is very effective with human children as well J

ADDRESS – If all other techniques fail, or if your dog or another animal is in harms way, then you need to address your dog’s behavior. You must use different communication techniques to block or stop the unwanted actions. Be sure to have a calm and confident demeanor whenever you are directly confronting a behavior because your intent is never to physically or mentally harm your dog.

The best way to illustrate these techniques is by observing a puppy harassing an older dog because the puppy wants to play. The older dog may want to play and can REWARD the behavior by joining in on the fun. If the older dog does not want to engage in play, it will IGNORE the puppy by turning away, shoulder or butt blocking or by moving away. If this does not work, the older dog may stop to smell something, get a drink of water or grab a toy, in hope that the new activity will RE-DIRECT the puppy’s focus onto something else. Finally, if the puppy persists, the older dog will ADDRESS the behavior by growling at, snapping at or physically correcting the puppy. This correction can sometimes look fierce but there is rarely damage since the older dog’s intent is not to hurt the puppy but only to stop the little guy’s unwanted behavior.

The idea is to understand that you have options when dealing with your dog’s different behaviors. Try not to get stuck using only one technique…mix them up and try different methods depending on the exact behavior your dog is exhibiting. I usually like to start with the least invasive options first (IGNORE or RE-DIRECT) to give the dog a chance to quit before I directly block or stop a behavior (ADDRESS). But, no matter which method you use, it is essential to follow through until the dog realizes the behavior is not wanted and stops. Always remain calm, confident and consistent when communicating with your dog. When you correct your dog with an angry and upset attitude, you are punishing your dog…when you correct your with a composed and assertive attitude, you are training your dog. November 17, 2015

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How to Choose a Dog

Choosing a dog is not something to be taken lightly and should be done with great care and consideration. A dog is not an object…it is a living creature. Take your time, be honest with yourself and be prepared for work and dedication. Too often, people make the mistake of choosing a dog on looks alone and do not consider the breed’s specific needs or common behavior traits.

To start the process of choosing a dog, it is of utmost importance that you first look at your own energy levels and the activities that you want to do with your dog. Are you the type of person that is up early every day and goes for long trail runs in the mountains? Or are you the type to take on life in a more laid back and casual manner. Choose a dog that best fits the activities you enjoy or has the energy level to keep up.

Other than energy levels and lifestyle requirements, the following are some issues that you should take into consideration:

Size – No matter what size dog you want, make sure that you have the necessary space and finances to properly care for the animal. Naturally, larger dogs are more expensive and require more space than small dogs.

Allergies – Even though there is no 100% hypoallergenic dog, there are certain breeds that are far less troublesome to allergy sufferers. Dogs with non-shedding coats produce far less dander, which is the main cause of allergic reactions.

Independence – All dogs are social animals and don’t enjoy being left alone for long periods of time. But, if you are a busy owner, there are some breeds that tolerate your absence better than others.

Children – Consider the ages of any children in the home and the lifestyle your family leads. There are some breeds with endless amount of energy, some breeds with infinite patience and some breeds that tend to be protective.

Grooming Needs – All dogs require some amount of regular grooming, but there are certain breeds that require more frequent and consistent care. Dogs with curly or long hair coats dogs may need to be groomed several times weekly. Some older dogs may need more attention and extra care.

Experience – Some dog breeds tend to be docile and laid back while others can be more dominant or rambunctious. Whether you are picking your first dog or one of many, your level of experience with dogs should play a big role in picking your new companion.

Exercise Requirements - A tired dog makes for a happy owner…so be sure to wear your dog out daily. Every dog’s exercise needs are different but certain breeds tend to be more energetic or unrestrained than others.

There are numerous factors to consider when picking a new furry family member. Every dog owner’s desires, circumstances or situation is different so there are a variety of issues people should take into account. Bear in mind that what might be important or necessary to you may be of no concern to another dog owner. Refrain from buying or rescuing a dog on impulse because the dog looked cute or you felt sorry for the dog. Be sure to include the whole family in the decision making process and take your time before taking the plunge. Best of luck to you in your search! January 4, 2016

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Nervous Dog Protocol
Working with a nervous or shy dog can be difficult and frustrating for many dog owners. Timidity and shyness can sometimes develop as a juvenile dog matures. Frequently, the primary cause of this behavior is the lack of proper introductions to various people, places, animals, situations or objects during the socialization period of puppyhood. Other origins may include physical abuse, emotional distress, neglect or merely not enough social interaction. Fear or shyness is a problem behavior that can easily progress to reactivity or aggression.

Nervous or shy dogs can be more challenging to work with than dominant or headstrong dogs. A dominant dog usually has no fearful tendencies and typically just needs to be toned-down and shown the rules, boundaries or limits. With a timid or fearful dog, you need to help develop the dog’s self-confidence and self-esteem along with building their trust of strangers or unfamiliar situations. This can be a lengthy process and takes a lot of patience and understanding on the owner’s part…have faith because there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Owners can help their dogs build confidence and grow into a stable and trusting dog. This is done by consistently introducing the dog to people in a controlled and structured setting. Over the year’s, I have developed a “Nervous Dog Protocol” to follow when introducing your dog to people that usually cause the dog to react with shy or timid behavior. I have had great success with this protocol but it is imperative that the owner and guests strictly adhere to each step of the process.

I recommended that you first start this process in your home with a friend who understands your situation and the dog’s behavior and is willing to help by carefully following each phase in the following “Nervous Dog Protocol”. Later, you can start to use the process when meeting strangers out in public.

General Rules for Interaction
Guests must totally ignore the dog
Stay calm and relaxed…you must have patience
NO touch, talk or eye contact – act as if the dog is not even there
Have your guest sit on the floor if necessary
Allow the owner to address any over the top behavior

Phase 1: Treat Drop
Use high value rewards…have special treats used only for this process
Drop small treats on the ground as far away as necessary for the dog to take the treat
Don’t face the dog – no touch, no talk, and no eye contact
Slowly move treat drops closer to you
Continue until you see the “happy face” …anticipation and no hesitation taking the treat

Phase 2: Treat Offer
Offer a treat to your dog with an open hand and to the side
Don’t face the dog – no touch, no talk, and no eye contact
If the dog will not approach or take the treat, return to Phase 1
Continue until you see the “happy face” …anticipation and no hesitation taking the treat

Phase 3: Treat Offer and Interact
Offer a treat to the dog with an open hand
Make soft eye contact and speak a few soft words of praise in a calming manner
If the dog becomes nervous immediately look away…keep eye contact to a minimum
If the dog reacts to this phase or won’t approach, return to Phase 2 or Phase 1
Continue until you see the “happy face” …anticipation and no hesitation taking the treat

Phase 4: Treat Offer and Touch Chin
Offer a treat to the dog with an open hand
As the dog takes the treat, touch the dog on the chin…just a touch
Must come from below and pet on the chin…dog can see your hand and it is respectful
This may be an OMG moment for the dog
If the dog reacts to this phase or won’t approach, return to Phase 3, Phase 2 or Phase 1
Continue until you see the “happy face” …anticipation and no hesitation taking the treat

Phase 5: Treat Offer and Pet
Offer a treat to the dog with an open hand
As the dog takes the treat, touch the dog on the chin…start with a touch
Then see if you can scratch or pet the chin or chest area
Move your petting around to see what the dog likes
If the dog reacts to this phase, return to Phase 4, Phase 3, Phase 2 or Phase 1
Continue until you see the “happy face” …anticipation and no hesitation taking the treat

Have patience during this process…it is important to go at the dog’s pace and not your own pace. You may not get through all of the phases in one training session but that is okay…what is important is that you do not go too fast or skip ahead too quickly. The idea here is to desensitize and counter-condition your dog’s response to meeting strangers. If everyone your dog meets follow this process, your dog will begin to trust people and will start to have a different reaction when meeting strangers. February 2, 2016

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A Dog's Response to Change

Your dog’s response to change in actually quite predictable. Whenever you modify a behavior, routine or ritual, your dog will respond with one of four reactions – fight, flight, avoidance or acceptance. Which response you get depends on what type of behavior or routine you are adjusting, your dog’s overall personality and how ingrained the behavior is in your dog. Having knowledge of what to expect from your dog can greatly assist you when dealing with your dog’s reaction to change.

FIGHT – Your dog may fight the change and refuse to give up the behavior. This is normal since dog’s love routines and whenever you change the status quo, it will be stressful on your dog. A dog in fight mode will move forward and challenge the change. A confident, head-strong or dominant dog is more likely to resist change by fighting to continue their known behavior. You need to be more determined and persistent than your dog. Fight is an unwanted response from your dog and needs to be blocked or stopped by ignoring, redirecting or addressing your dog’s current behavior.

FLIGHT – Your dog may choose to flee and get away from the situation. This is usually the reaction from fearful or nervous dogs – they want to just get away and distance themselves from the stressful situation. Flight, just like fight, is an unwanted behavior and needs to blocked or stopped. Many owners accidentally nurture nervous and fleeing behavior by rewarding it with attention and affection or by feeling sorry for the animal. A fleeing dog must have a calm and confident leader to communicate that there is no reason for having concern. Blocking flight frequently means just leashing your dog and helping them get through the experience which normally causes your dog to flee.

AVOIDANCE – If your dog does not fight or flee from a change, it is common for the dog to avoid the situation. Avoidance tends to be temporary because this is just a dog trying to figure out the behavior modification. Avoidance does not need to be blocked or stopped and can be addressed by either ignoring or redirecting the dog. It is imperative that you do not feel anxious or worried and remain calm and indifferent while your dog seems a little lost or confused. This is totally normal while the dog adjusts to a change or acclimates to a new situation.

ACCEPTANCE – This one is pretty self-explanatory and is the desired outcome whenever you are changing a behavior or adjusting a routine. When you properly follow through with your modification, are consistent and have patience while your dog adjusts, the change will quickly be accepted as the new ritual or behavior.

A perfect example to illustrate all of the four responses to change is when your child has misbehaved and you take away their game console or cell-phone. At first, the child will probably throw a hissy fit and argue with you…how dare you take that away! The child is fighting the change. After this initial reaction, the child frequently runs to their bedroom and slams the door closed in protest. The child is now in flight mode. After a few hours, the child comes out but either ignores you or says “I hate you and I am not talking to you.” Now the child is avoiding the change. Finally, the child comes to you and says that they are bored and asks if you want to play a game or watch a movie. The child has now accepted and adapted to the change.

The next time you are working on your dog’s behaviors, remember to have lots of patience and always follow through in a calm and confident manner until you get a change in your dog’s state of mind. The trick with any change or adjustment is to be more stubborn than your dog. April 11, 2016

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Introducing Children to Dogs

It is very important to carefully monitor and supervise your children’s initial interactions with a new dog. Both kids and dogs (especially puppies) can be impatient, inquisitive and easily over-excited, so it is crucial that an adult oversees the introduction to be sure that it goes. Kids and dogs need to be taught how to interact with one another. As of 2015, over 50% of households is the United States own a dog and the benefits of having a dog in a family are wonderful for a child – the relationship with a dog teaches empathy and compassion, fosters self-esteem, provides love and affection, teaches responsibility and promotes physical activity. With benefits like these, it is easy to see why so many parents choose to have a family dog.

Unfortunately, according to the CDC, approximately 800,000 dog bites are reported annually in the United States and more than half of the bite victims are children. Additionally, children are much more likely than adults to be bitten in the face, neck or head regions because a child is literally face height to a dog because of its small size. It is important to realize that children can be very threatening to a dog because kids tend to make abrupt movements and use high-pitched noises which can be extremely intimidating and upsetting to a dog. Many young children can view a dog as a toy and frequently want to squeeze, pull, poke or chase the animal. Some kids may have difficulty controlling these antagonistic impulses. Furthermore, young toddlers cannot empathize with a dog’s discomfort or fear of a situation. Even though school-age children do learn empathy for another living creature, they usually lack the skills necessary to properly interpret a dog’s body language or warning signs.

Dogs are pack oriented animals with a hierarchical social system. Though dogs tend to view adult humans as “alpha”, children can easily be viewed as playmates or even subordinates. If a dog is uncomfortable around children, it may posture, snarl or even lash out with a bite This is a dog’s way of communicating irritation or displeasure and the dog is only attempting to correct the child in the way the dog knows best. Furthermore, some dogs just do not like kid and this could be due to no exposure to or bad experiences with children. Dogs will be dogs and children will be children.

The following guidelines will help ensure a harmonious relationship between children and dogs.

1)Always supervise your child’s interactions with a dog. Any child under the age of 12 should always have an adult present. The adult should stay in the background but be ready to intervene if the situation looks like it is not going well.

2)Never assume that a dog will not react to a small child. If startled or hurt, even the best behaved dog may lash out at or correct a child. Closely observe a dog’s body language when interacting with children. If a dog growls at a child, keeps turning from a child, constantly moves away from a child or the hair on a dog’s back stands up, it is time to intervene and teach the child to leave the dog alone.
3)Teach your child that they must always ask permission before approaching or touching someone else’s dog. Confinement can make a dog more territorial or reactive, so children should always ignore dogs that are confined to a fenced yard, alone in a vehicle, in a crate or tethered to a tree.

4)Teach your child how to properly introduce themselves to a dog. Demonstrate to your child how to first offer a closed fist to the dog so the animal can smell the child. Show your children how to pet the dog on its chin or back first and to avoid sensitive areas like the ears, feet, tail or belly. It is best to let the dog nose its way to the child instead of the other way around because you should give the dog time to get used to the child and initiate first contact.

5)Teach your child how to read a dog’s body language so they can notice when a dog is getting stressed, upset or dominant. If a dog does not want to interact with a child, then leave the dog alone because chances are the dog will come around once it gets used to the child and does not view the child as a threat.

6)Demonstrate how to pet a dog on your child’s arm. Explain that poking, pulling, squeezing or hitting a dog is not okay and can quickly lead to a correction from the dog.

7)Teach your child to never put their face near a dog’s face. It is just too risky and can easily lead to a bite if the dog feels nervous, scared or trapped.

8)Never bother a dog that is eating, sleeping or chewing on something. Explain to the child that it is best to “let a sleeping dog lie”.

9)Do not allow rough-housing or teasing. Do not allow your child to climb or lay on a dog. Use safe toys to show your child how to properly play with a dog. Rough-housing can encourage dominant or aggressive behavior in a dog.

10)Children learn from modeling after their parents, so be sure to implement all of these guidelines when interacting with a dog. Never yell at or use physical punishment on a dog. Your child will think that this is the proper way to correct a dog when mistakes are made.

11)Allow older children to get involved with the caring of your dog. Young children can help with the dog’s watering and feeding while older children can become involved in the training or grooming of the dog. Depending on the dog’s leash manners, older children can also take the dog for short walks (supervised of course). Being involved in these activities will help the child to be seen as a leader thus gaining the dog’s respect and trust.

Following these guidelines will help ensure a happy and safe relationship between your child and dogs. The rewards can be wonderful if your child is taught how to properly interact with a dog -- a truly loving bond and a lifetime love of dogs without fear or anxiety. If you have concerns, I highly recommend that you get help from a dog training professional in your area and it is a good idea to educate the whole family in order the prevent bad habits from being formed or nurtured. As always, remember to stay calm and confident when working with a child or a dog. Set a good example and always practice what you preach. September 30, 2016

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Caring for Senior Dogs

Caring for an older dog is very rewarding and satisfying. Older dogs know their owners very well and have a wonderful grasp of all their commands and your routines. Senior dogs tend to have less exercise requirements and can be very content just hanging out and lounging with their human partners. Exactly when a dog is considered a senior mainly depends on the breed. Larger dogs (such as a Great Dane or Mastiff) may attain senior status around the age of 5 or 6 while smaller dogs (like a Chihuahua or Pekinese) may not reach their golden years until around 10 or 12 years of age. Besides breed and size, diet, genetics and environment all play a major role in a dog’s life expectancy.

The proper combination of attention and preventative care can help extend the lives of dogs, just as modern medicine has extended the life of humans. To ensure that your dog lives a long, happy and comfortable life, think about implementing some of the following strategies into your pet care routine.

1)Observe your dog’s diet – It is common for older dogs to have some issues with food, including loss of appetite, problems chewing food, digestive problems or obesity. Check with your vet concerning the best exercise and diet plan for your older dog. Changes in diet may include decreasing carbohydrates to maintain a healthy weight or adding more fiber to their diet to help with digestive issues. There are also supplements available, such as glucosamine or fish oils, that can be added to their food to help with joint pain.

2)Don’t forget your dog’s teeth - As your dog ages, good dental hygiene is vital. To prevent painful dental disease or decay, regular brushing or professional dental cleaning is recommended. Dental treats and toys can be used if your dog does not enjoy having their teeth brushed.

3)Visit your vet more frequently - Just as older people visit their doctor more frequently, it is important that your senior dog goes in for a vet checkup at least twice a year. Your dog will benefit from more frequent vet visits. Senior dogs might need additional examinations, dental care or blood tests. Furthermore, certain breeds may be more to susceptible to certain ailments such as diabetes, arthritis, cancer or hip dysplasia. Early detection is important before something becomes a major issue.

4)Adjust your dog’s exercise routines - Aging dogs may experience pain and not be able to enjoy all the activities that they did at a younger age. It is still extremely important, for proper health and general well-being, that your dog gets a suitable amount of exercise and mental stimulation. Shorten your walks and keep a close eye on your dog’s breathing and movement. Make sure that you do not over do it. Training and interactive toys, such as food puzzles, will help maintain an active brain.

5)Adjust your house - Just like when you had to puppy-proof your house, you now need to adjust your house to accommodate your older dog’s specific needs. Consider using a ramp for getting in the car or on the bed if a dog has hip or arthritis issues. Make sure that food and water are in easy reach, especially if your dog has vision problems. If you live in a cooler climate, you may consider a heated bed for your senior dog since these can help relieve achy muscles and joints. If your dog has problems rising, you may want to use some non-slip surfaces to prevent falls and to make it easier for them to keep traction when getting up.

6)Keep a close eye on your dog - Watch your dog’s appetite, behavior, exercise patterns and dental issues. Regularly check for any new lesions, lumps or bumps and bring them to your vet’s attention. You know your dog best so just keep a look out for any sudden changes and trust your instincts.

Even though taking care of a senior dog may be a little more effort for the owner, it is a small price to give to your lifelong companion. Your dog has been a wonderful friend to you for many years and it is now time to return the favor by making sure they are comfortable, healthy and safe. Your furry family member will appreciate all your extra work! As always, stay calm and confident and be the leader that your dog wants and needs. March 14, 2017

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Breaking Up a Dog Fight

Being witness to a dog fight can be a frightful and stressful experience – especially if your own dog is involved. Dogs can do some serious damage to each other and the urge to jump in between them can be hard to resist. However, if improper techniques are used to break up a dog fight, there is a good chance you will be injured in the process.

Foremost, never put yourself between two dogs that are fighting. If you physically place your hand (or any part of your body) between the dogs, there is a good chance that you will be bitten. Never assume that your “loving” furry family member will not bite its owner…dogs can get caught up in the heat of battle and bite onto anything that gets within range or is deemed as a threat by the dog. Do not take it personally and understand that your dog’s reaction is a natural behavior.

No matter what technique you employ to stop a dog fight, the number one most important thing is that you stay as calm as possible. Make sure to avoid a lot of screaming or yelling since this will most likely have the opposite effect you intended and can likely intensify the fight. A proper correction sound before a fight ensues can possibly redirect the dogs but timing and intensity is crucial. Remove any children from the area and ask people who are not involved to stand back. It is also best if two people are involved- one person to handle each dog entangled in the fight.

The following are different techniques you can use when breaking up a dog fight. There is no “one” technique that works best for every fight and you need to use your own judgement and experience when deciding which method to apply to the situation. Keep it in mind that most dog fights are not to cause serious harm or damage but are usually two dogs having a dominance dispute. These fights are frequently all “spit and teeth” and rarely cause major injury or last very long. Still, it is good to understand some different options at your disposal.

LOUD/DISTRACTING SOUNDS
Banging a noisy object near the dogs or blowing an air horn may be enough to snap the dogs out of it and get them to stop engaging long enough to separate the dogs. This method is less likely to work during an intense dog fight. Yelling or screaming at the dogs may intensify the fight. Loud noises may not be the best way to stop a fight but it is worth a try and tends to be more effective if the sound is loud, sudden and high pitched. You can even try ringing a doorbell, if one is available, to possibly redirect the dogs.

WATER OR SPRAYS
If accessible, use a garden hose to spray water in the face of the dogs (if possible, aim for the nose and eyes of the most aggressive dog). A bucket of water or water bottle can be used as well but this is less likely to end the fight. Viner or citronella spray can be used too but this in usually only effective on fights that are low level in intensity but is still worth a try. I do not recommend using pepper spray or a fire extinguisher as these sprays may aggravate the dogs more and may cause permanent damage to a dog.

OBJECTS
Sometimes, a dog fight can be broken up by placing an object between or on the dogs. Try throwing a heavy blanket over the dogs. This may briefly break the dogs’ focus on each other and help end the incident. You can also place an object like a chair or laundry basket on the dogs which may help in separating them. If you have a board or similar object handy, you can attempt to stick it between the dogs. As with water or sprays, these techniques may not be very effective when attempting to stop a very intense dog fight but they are worth a try.

INTERVENTION
If not done properly, physically intervening has the most potential danger for the human trying to stop the dog fight. Whenever you physically address a dog fight, keep in mind that there is a chance you may be bitten. The most common method is the “wheel-barrow” technique. This works only if there are two people (one for each dog involved) and, if there are multiple dogs involved in the fight, there must be a human for each dog. Each person should slowly maneuver behind the dog that they are handling. At the same time, each person should grab their dog by the hind legs and walk backwards and away from the fight scene. If one dog has another dog on the ground, handle the dominant dog first then grab the other dog when it gets up. Immediately start circling to one side while holding the dog’s legs. This forces the dog to pay attention to staying upright and will follow the circular movement with is front feet. Make sure to keep moving or you will give the dog the opportunity to turn around and possibly bite you. Continue the movement until the dog calms down and you can safely remove or put a leash on the dogs. This method works best if you are not alone.

Note: If you insist on grabbing a dog’s collar, I would recommend grabbing the scruff of the neck instead. This is similar to the method used by a mother dog to handle and calm a young dog. Holding the scruff allows for better control over the mouth thus less chance for a dog bite. Again, I stress that physically addressing a behavior should only be done by a professional or someone with a great deal of experience handling dogs.

Remember to always be composed and self-assured when breaking up a dog fight. Stay focused and always keep your safety in mind. The most successful method for breaking up a dog fight is prevention…defusing the situation before an actual fight begins. Know your dog’s temperament and learn to read your dog’s body language (or calming signals) so you are better able to pick up on the ques your dog demonstrates when starting to become stressed, agitated or irritated.

I strongly recommend taking two dogs for a walk together if you notice any tension between the dogs. A long walk allows for a side-to-side meeting and gives the dogs ample time to get used to each other plus a chance to bond some through a group activity. Meeting face to face and just standing around (especially on a tense leash with a nervous owner) gives the dogs too many opportunities to intensify or become reactive. Secure the guidance of a professional dog trainer if you are having frequent fights or are not comfortable handling a dog fight. Be the calm and confident leader that your dog wants and needs. August 11, 2017

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A Human Problem, Not a Dog Problem

The following is a wonderful article that I came across a few months ago that had such terrific information and insight that I felt that I must share this with my readers. This article was written by Kimberly Artley, who is the owner of Pack Fit located in Lorton, Virginia. I hope you find the article as interesting and eye opening as I did…enjoy!

“We don’t have a dog problem, we have a human problem”

There’s a massive problem going on in the world right now (well, one of many), especially in the US of A, and our dogs are paying the ultimate price for it.

The number one reason cited for dogs getting turned into shelters (usually around age 1) is “behavioral issues”. Issues that could have easily offset and prevented had there been a different level of commitment, ownership, and responsibility.

We don’t have a dog problem, we have a human problem.

This problem we face is not of the dog’s doing. Allow me to expand on this.
There’s a big difference between “trait” and “behavior”. Traits are characteristics and qualities we are born with and are genetically determined. Behaviors are conditioned responses. The main difference is one can be changed, and one cannot. Can you guess which one?

There are very, very, very few of us born imbalanced, unstable, or with the intent to kill or cause harm (trait). We come into the world pure, and filled with joy, love, curiosity, trust, openness, and wonder. As we grow, we take in information from our surroundings; from everything and everyone around us: our parents, peers, the outside world, educators, social media, etc. We start to form an identity. A self and world concept. A filter through which all information starts to pass through, and which we then label, categorize, judge, and respond (behavior). And this is not far off from dogs.
There are 2 more shades to this: 1) We’re over-loving our dogs to the point of instability, imbalance, and insecurity (no structure, no rules, no disagreeing with poor choices, states of mind or behaviors… while gaining all the soft stuff), and 2) We’re not loving our dogs enough (keeping them in isolation, crating them for hours upon hours, not including them in our day-to-days, little to no engagement, etc.)

Redefining Love

We’ve got to redefine what “love” means when it comes to our dogs. “Love” is showing up. Every day. Honoring their needs… and meeting them. Advocating for them. Leading them through this far-from-instinctual world they’re living in with us. Helping them connect those necessary dots, teaching, and equipping them with what they need to be their best version of self. While we’re not their “parents”, the concept is the same.

We often get a dog to fill our own emotional needs and “make us feel okay”, without giving a second thought as to what the dog needs to feel okay… at ease, balanced, healthy, and at peace. It becomes a very one-sided dynamic, the dog usually ending up with the short end of the stick.

Dogs aren’t born understanding the difference between (what we consider to be) appropriate vs. inappropriate, polite vs. impolite, and respectful vs. disrespectful behavior. The onus falls upon us to teach them this; but we can’t teach, lead, or guide without first understanding how to communicate effectively.

Communication

We’ve got a huge communication gap between people and their dogs. After all, we’re two different species of animal (primates and canines), and not many people are investing their time and energy into learning how to do this.
Humans’ primary manner of communication comes in the form of verbal language. Dogs, on the other hand, communicate mainly via body language, followed by vocalization and energy. When humans try to (verbally) communicate with dogs, and dogs “just aren’t getting it”, many will get frustrated, impatient, give up and write the dog off as “stupid” or “hard-headed”. But it’s just like another human speaking to us in a different dialect. We’ve got to show, guide, develop association, and subscribe meaning to any words we’re expecting them to understand, and also learn their language so we can get our point across.

Instinctual Needs

Aside from a communication barrier, endless confusion, and over- and under-loving our dogs, behavioral issues arise from one of more of their instinctual needs as dogs not being met, not being fulfilled, and not being provided for. This, in turn, gives rise to stress, frustration, insecurity, discomfort, fear, anxiety, boredom, etc. which are the seedlings to (outside of health and medical) the mis- and ill behaviors we’re commonly dealing with.
Behavior is a manner of expression, and is the external manifestation of an underlying driving force. Always. So, when we start to see expressions such as excessive or neurotic: digging, barking, whining, jumping, tail-chasing, etc., even: aggression, leash reactivity, bullying, and so on, we can always trace it back to one or more of their needs not being met and provided for by us.

We brought dogs into our homes, it’s our responsibility to give them what they need to understand their place in this world, feel secure, safe and comfortable, and what they need to reach and maintain a calm, balanced state of mind. Structure. Rules and boundaries. Leadership. Discipline. Exercise. Mental engagement. Socialization (it’s not what many think). And so on.

Some may think hiring a trainer may fix or resolve the problem. The common mindset is “the dog needs training”, “the dog needs to be fixed”, “the dog has the problem”; and it couldn’t be farther than the truth. We live in a culture where we think throwing money at an issue or getting someone else to deal with it will make it go away. We think dumping the dog is a solution, or even getting a new one. Problems never go away until they are addressed.

Humans conditioned the very behaviors they’re seeing (most of the time, it’s unknowingly), so until the human the dog lives with changes his or her behavior, the dog will never change theirs.

We don’t have a dog problem, we have a human problem.

Dogs are being labeled, judged, and sentenced to death due to our lack of understanding, accountability, responsibility, and commitment. They’re being disregarded and discarded, their worlds turned upside down, and are even paying the ultimate price with their life… due to us not upholding our end of the deal. If we want to see a change in our dogs, *we* must change first.

I hope you enjoyed this article as much as I did and that you gained some great insight and knowledge concerning dog ownership and psychology. As always, stay calm and confident and keep being the leader that your dog needs and deserves. January 8, 2018

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Essential Needs of a Dog

To enjoy a happy and balanced dog and to build a strong and rewarding relationship with your dog, there are specific core needs that must be met daily. It is an owner’s responsibility to ensure that their dog receives 1) exercise, 2) training/discipline and 3) attention/affection every day and in this order.

Many of the issues I come across during private training sessions are because the dog is not getting these 3 basic needs. In most cases, the dogs I am working with are getting tons of love and affection, just a little bit of training with few rules or boundaries and not nearly enough exercise to meet the dog’s energy levels. In this type of environment, the dog will learn to be spoiled, disrespectful and demanding, have poor impulse control, bad manners and lack social skills and be destructive, unruly and hard to manage. Being a dog owner is a 24/7 job and it is imperative that these needs are met daily. It requires time and dedication, but the payoff of having a polite, balanced dog more than outweighs the efforts involved.

The first essential need of a dog is EXERCISE. Though each dog’s specific exercise requirements differ due to breed, age, health, weight or personality, it is crucial to drain your dog’s energy level each day. Pent up energy is the cause of many unruly and disruptive behaviors and many of my client’s issues with their dog stems from lack of physical or mental stimulation. A bored dog with excess energy will not, unlike a human being, do the dishes, clean the closet or vacuum the house, but will most likely display destructive behavior such as digging, excessive chewing and unmanageable conduct. Find activities that you and your dog can enjoy together and can be used to manage and deplete your dog’s excess energy -- take a long walk, play fetch with your dog, take your dog for a swim, take your dog for a bike ride, use a treadmill, play indoor appropriate games, for example. As I always say, “A tired dog makes for a happy owner.”

The second essential need of a dog is TRAINING and DISCIPLINE. It is important to teach your dog basic obedience commands and to set rules, boundaries and limits for your dog and be consistent in implementing them. Dogs thrive on routines and feel more comfortable and content when they know what is allowed or not allowed and what is expected from the dog. If you do not set up rules, boundaries and limits, your dog may view you as a playmate or follower, instead of a leader, and this can result in dominant or disorderly conduct. Make a point each day to utilize the obedience commands your dog knows and to be steadfast with all the rules that you decide to put in place. Dogs are pack oriented animals and require consistent and confident leadership and guidance. You may find your dog resisting some of the changes, but this is a normal behavior, and the dog is only testing you to see if you really mean what you say. Stay the course and your dog will eventually accept the adjustment.

The third essential need of a dog is AFFECTION and ATTENTION. This is an area in which dogs are typically not lacking. Most dog owners truly enjoy pampering and loving on their dog, which is a wonderful human characteristic, but it is important to give nurturing affection at the appropriate times. Remember, whenever you give your dog love or attention, you will be reinforcing whatever your dog is doing. Dogs need to feel loved, appreciated and welcomed, but make sure that you do not nurture or reward bad behaviors with affection. Many dogs enjoy all the adoring and soft rewards in life without ever having to work for or earn them. A simple sit or wait command before giving your dog a reward or starting a fun activity is making your dog earn the gift -- your dog gets everything for free, and I mean everything, so is it too much to ask your dog to sit before you put their leash on or throw the ball? A spoiled and over pampered dog tends to be unruly, entitled and demanding -- just like a child.

Keep these essential needs in mind when interacting with your dog and you will be on your way to building a healthy and fulfilling relationship for both of you. If affection alone made the perfect dog, then there would be no bad dogs, but it does not -- exercise and discipline along with love and affection create a balanced and happy dog. One of the best ways to easily incorporate all the essential needs of a dog is a proper walk. During a walk, your dog (and you) get exercise and stimulation, your dog has specific rules and guidelines to follow while on leash and your dog can enjoy affection and attention for displaying good behaviors -- a good walk with your dog is a win-win-win situation. If you are having problems enjoying a walk with your dog, consult a local professional to help you out. As always, remain calm and confident and be the leader your dog desires. July 23, 2018

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Puppy Mouthing and Biting

Puppies explore the world around them with their mouths and a mouthing (or biting) puppy is a common issue that I come across while training owners. The puppy is not trying to intentionally harm their human, but they can get a little over-zealous at times.

Puppy teeth, also referred to as “milk teeth”, are very sharp, can be painful on our skin and can easily tear or rip clothing. These puppy teeth are temporary, and a puppy will typically begin to replace them with adult teeth around 3-4 months of age and will usually have all its adult teeth by 6-8 months of age. This period of tooth replacement is referred to as “teething” (just like a human child) and, because it can cause a puppy’s gums to hurt, it is normal to see increased chewing during this time. Chewing feels good to the dog, helps relieve some of the pain and aids in removing the milk teeth. Your puppy’s mouth has a lot of changes going on during the first year of life. Besides teething, over-excitement or rough play can instigate or trigger biting. It is our job to teach them that teeth are not allowed on us.

In order to get mouthing under control, the following are some common techniques that you can use with your biting puppy.

1)Redirect your puppy away from you and onto a proper chewable item. Be sure to have plenty of appropriate chew toys accessible to your puppy at all times. Praise and continue play if he directs his mouthing onto the object.

2)Twist an old rag or t-shirt into a stick or icicle shape, soak it in water and freeze it. Offer this to the dog to help sooth any pain, give the dog something to focus on and assist in removing the milk teeth. Some people recommend you soak it in beef or chicken broth before freezing for added flavor.

3)Disagree with the biting by yelling “ouch” loudly and immediately stopping play and turning away from the dog. Ignore the dog for a few moments and then go back to the activity. If the puppy keeps biting, repeat the process up to three times. If it continues, the play stops, and you move away from and ignore the puppy for a while.

4)Physically or mentally wear your puppy out. Many puppies get nippy because they have pent up energy. Try redirecting your dog’s energy with a fun and up beat training session or taking your dog for a brisk walk. This will hopefully get the puppy’s focus away from chewing on you. Some dogs can become mouthy because they are tired. In this situation, the dog needs a break and should be put up to rest.

5)Putting the puppy in a time-out can also be helpful. Place your puppy in another room and make sure that there are no toys or items of interest in the room. Leave the puppy there for a few minutes then retrieve the puppy and pick up where you left off. Repeat the process as necessary. The puppy will quickly figure out that mouthing will cause play to stop and separation from their pack.

6)Take advantage of any opportunities for your puppy to play with other puppies and with friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Other dogs can help teach your puppy bite inhibition and acceptable levels of play. Socializing and playing with dogs are important for your puppy’s development—plus, if your puppy expends lots of energy playing with other puppies, the dog will be less motivated to play roughly with you.

7)Consider enrolling your puppy in a puppy class, where the puppy can have supervised playtime with other puppies and learn some new important skills.

Give all or some of these techniques a try the next time your puppy decides to use you as a chew toy. Be aware that the puppy may fight the change and the behavior may even worsen at first. This is totally normal since the puppy probably enjoys the activity or finds it fun and exciting but now needs a little time to learn that mouthing behavior is not allowed and will not be tolerated. Stay positive and consistent and stick to the plan. Before you know it, your dog will no longer be biting on you. As always, stay calm and confident and be the leader that your dog needs and deserves. December 11, 2018

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The “H” Word

Humping…yes, I said it! A cause of anxiety and stress for many dog owners. The good news is that you can relax because mounting or humping are completely normal behaviors which male and female dogs exhibit for a variety of reasons. It is only if the behavior becomes obsessive or disruptive that you usually need to worry or get involved.

Let’s look at the reasons dogs hump or mount each other.

Sexual – Well, duh? Yes, dogs tend to mount when they are sexually excited. It can happen with either females or males and does not matter if they are spayed or neutered. It is built into their DNA and is going to happen at times. This is common with dogs under 1 year of age
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Societal – Dogs frequently mount or hump other dogs to show a higher ranking in the pack hierarchy. It is their way of showing dominance and control over another dog.

Over-Excitement – Sometimes during excited play or a stimulating situation, a dog may attempt to hump or mount. This is totally normal unless it becomes an “every time you play” occurrence. Compulsive humping during play is a sign that your dog needs more socializing in order to learn proper types of play.

Coping – Shy, nervous or anxious dogs may mount or hump as a coping mechanism to help dogs deal with situations that are stressful to them. Many times, this type of humping can be directed towards the owner or an object.

Obsession – If humping becomes a habit and the “go to” behavior that your dog uses to deal with excitement or to relieve stress, then the behavior may become an obsessive and compulsive action. This compulsive behavior can become harmful to the dog’s ability to socialize or even function in general.

Now that we understand the reasons behind humping, let’s look at what is considered normal and some different ways to address the behavior. If your dog is humping on occasion, let’s say a couple times a day, then your dog is displaying totally normal behavior. If the dogs involved are not offended by the behavior and they are taking turns mounting, then there is no need for concern from the owner. Many times, if you just let two dogs “hump it out”, the behavior will diminish and will not be an issue anymore between the two dogs.

But if your dog is continually humping and being socially disruptive with mounting or you do not want the behavior in a given situation, here are several options you can utilize when trying to curb the behavior.

Neuter or Spay – It may not completely remove the behavior but spaying or neutering usually reduces a dog’s sexual motivation and humping can diminish. It is not a magic cure for humping but can help decrease the behavior. If you are not going to breed a dog, it is highly recommended that you have the animal spayed or neutered.

Redirection - Try and catch your dog before the behavior starts and redirect the dog by throwing a toy or asking for a simple trick. Most owners know their dogs well and the typical behavior or body language they may display before mounting. Try to get the dogs attention when you see that the dog is thinking about mounting and redirect their attention to a more appropriate activity. This works wonders since dogs can only do one thing at a time.

Time Out – If your dog is humping you or your guests, begin by disagreeing with the behavior and bumping the dog away. If this does not work, then you can put the dog in a time out. Put your dog in an empty room by itself and be sure there are no fun items in the time out area. After a few minutes, let the dog out of the area and resume your normal activity with the dog. Repeat this course of action if the humping continues.

Training Command – Similar to redirection, try putting some of your basic command training to use. If you see your dog begin any mounting behavior, immediately get your dogs attention and request a known command. “Sit” is usually an effective command because a dog can not sit and hump at the same time. Using a simple command can be a win-win situation because this gives you an opportunity to work on your dog’s basic training and you can now reward for a job well done.

Give these techniques a try the next time you need to curtail your dog’s humping or mounting. Make sure to not overreact when your dog humps because you do not want to punish your dog for a normal behavior. Instead, you want to teach the dog that such behavior is not appropriate in the current situation. If the behavior is getting worse or you are having no luck diminishing the activity, please contact a local trainer to assist you. As always, stay calm and confident while working with your dog and be the leader that your dog deserves and needs. April 15, 2019

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The Art of Claiming

Claiming is a wonderful technique that I basically teach to all my clients, at one time or another. When used correctly, claiming is a very useful tool for teaching rules, boundaries or limits. Additionally, claiming is a normal activity that dogs do in their natural environment. Once the human learns how to properly communicate, using a method that the dog can easily understand, all training and behavior modification will advance at a quicker and easier pace. Plus, it is a lot more peaceful than pulling on or yelling at your dog which can increase the behavior and diminish trust.

Claiming is the activity of assuming ownership over a person, place or thing. A good example is a mother dog protecting one of her pups from an older dog that is being too playful or rough with the young puppy. First, she will get between the two dogs, face the older dog and block it from getting to her puppy. Using energy, body language, scent, sound, and touch, the mother dog will communicate that she is unpleased with the older dog’s behavior and wants her puppy to be left alone. The mother will follow-through with claiming her puppy, using all forms of communication, until the older dog gets the point and changes its state of mind and places its attention elsewhere.

The art of claiming is simple and will come naturally to you with some practice. For demonstration purposes, let’s imagine your dog is digging a hole in the middle of your yard and you want him or her to stop. First, you must physically claim the hole by stepping between the dog and the hole and blocking the dog away from it. This is referred to as splitting and herding – you split between the dog and the hole and then you herd your dog away from it. This is a natural behavior that dogs do to claim ownership of something. You can use body language, energy, sound and touch while splitting and herding the dog away to help get the point across. The trick is to continue claiming the hole until the dog decides to do something else - this is referred to as follow-through and means you must persist until the dog changes its state of mind.

I recommend that you stand tall and relaxed while taking ownership and have patience while the dog figures out that you mean it and will continue until the dog stops. Follow-through does not mean you escalate but instead, just hold the energy of the claim while the dog tests you to see if you really own it. Once the dog changes its state of mind, then you must immediately relax and release the claiming energy so that the dog will comprehend that you are now happy with their choice of focus and behavior. It will confuse the dog if you hold the corrective energy after the dog has decided to leave the object alone. The more the dog challenges you for ownership, the more opportunities you will have to teach the dog.

Most people tend to pull their dog away from an object that the owner wants left alone. This will usually cause tension and the dog will desire the object more. The idea is to get the dog to make the correct decision and make a good choice. If you just pull the dog away or stop the claiming energy before the dog gets the point, then you have not changed the dog’s state of mind and the dog will go right back to the object once you move away. Redirection can work wonders by getting the dogs attention onto something more appropriate for a given situation. Like, don’t chew on my guest’s pant legs but, here…chew on this toy. Good boy! If your dog stops the activity your correcting but looks lost and confused, then you can redirect the dog to something else that you can now reward such as sitting, playing with a toy or going to their bed.

You can run into problems when claiming a person, place or thing if your dog or pack lacks human leadership. A spoiled and/or pushy pack, that has been getting everything for free without any rules, boundaries or limits, will tend to fight the change and demand to do or get what they want. This is because you must be a leader in order to claim something and the dogs may currently view you as a playmate or follower. The trick is that the more things you own, the greater your leadership will become. One simple rule, that I give to all my clients, is to own their personal space. This alone will help build their leadership in a dog’s eyes. If a dog can enter their human’s intimate space whenever it pleases or wants, then who owns who? The dog owns you! A quick fix is to allow the dog into your space when you invite it and not whenever the dog demands it. Furthermore, the more items you own, the more routines you have and the more rules you follow, make a dog feel relaxed because there is a good leader. Being a leader is more about making your dog feel safe and secure and not about always teaching or changing behaviors.

Claiming can be used in a variety of dog behavior scenarios such as getting in the trash can, going into a restricted area, pestering you around the dinner table, rushing visitors at the door, harassing a younger or older dog, chewing on shoes, grabbing the babies toys or blankets, counter surfing, invading a guest’s personal space or constant jumping. The possibilities are seemingly endless.

SO, the next time your dog gets ahold of something you don’t want them to have, try claiming the object and sending the dog away from it instead of pulling or pushing on the dog. Have patience but mean it. Remember, being mean is not the same as meaning it. Keep a serious but calm energy while you practice claiming. Each time you claim something usually takes about half the amount of time as the previous claim but know that the first claim will always take the longest. Once you’ve successfully claimed any person, place or thing, your dog will respect it. The dog may test it some along the way but stay strong and keep the course until your dog figures it out. As always, stay calm and confident when working with your dog and seek professional guidance or help if needed. November 25, 2019

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